fast fashion frenzy: a double-edged sword

Fast fashion – it’s the quick, cheap, and oh-so-tempting way to fill our wardrobe with the latest trends. Brands like Zara, H&M, Primark, Shein and Forever 21 have turned the industry upside down, churning out new collections at breakneck speed and affordable prices. But while fast fashion lets us indulge in runway-inspired looks without breaking the bank, it’s not all glitz and glam, nor about taking part in an actual marathon.

what is fast fashion?

Fast fashion is the term used to describe clothing designs that move quickly from the catwalk to stores to meet new trends. This rapid production cycle allows retailers to offer trendy clothes at low prices. The key to fast fashion is in its name: “speed”. Garments are designed, produced, and sold within weeks rather than months and then replaced by the next “big hit” in the market. This business model thrives on consumers’ constant desire for newness and to our love for stylish deals.

The thrill of finding a chic top or a pair of trendy jeans for less than the price of lunch is indeed undeniable. For many, fast fashion is a gateway to experimenting with personal style without a hefty price tag and that is a good way to make fashion more accessible and democratised.But, all the glitters is not gold.

the dark underbelly

However, behind the shiny facade lies a series of troubling issues:

1. Environmental Impact: the environmental footprint of fast fashion is enormous. The production of cheap, disposable clothing requires vast amounts of water, energy, and chemicals. According to the United Nations, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions and consumes more water than any other industry apart from agriculture. Moreover, the synthetic fibres used in many fast fashion items are non-biodegradable, contributing to the ever-growing problem of microplastics in our oceans. Needless to say, “the faster you run, the more you have to eat to keep up with your energy demands”, making these costs destined to exponential  increase.
2. Labour Exploitation: it’s not just about resources, but also about humans. The race to the bottom in terms of pricing often leads to the exploitation of workers in developing countries. Many fast fashion brands outsource production to factories where labour conditions are far from ideal. Reports of low wages, long working hours, and unsafe working environments are common . The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh in 2013, which killed over 1,100 garment workers, was a tragic reminder of the human cost of cheap clothing.
3. Quality and Waste: fast fashion prioritises  speed and cost over quality. As a result, garments are often poorly made and don’t last long. This throwaway culture contributes to a staggering amount of textile waste. It’s estimated that Americans alone discard around 81 pounds of clothing per person each year. Much of this ends up in landfills, further exacerbating environmental issues.
   
   

   
   

buy less, choose well, make it last

While fast fashion offers the allure of affordability and trendiness, it’s crucial to be aware of its significant drawbacks. From environmental degradation to labour exploitation, the true cost of that bargain dress or those cheap jeans is far higher than the price tag suggests.

Governments and international organisations are also beginning to take action. For instance, the European Union has proposed mandatory minimums for the inclusion of recycled fibres in textiles while the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion is working to halt environmentally and socially destructive practices, promoting sustainable alternatives that can drive positive change across the industry​.

Influencers are also taking a stance: for instance, Aja Barber, a writer and fashion consultant, often speaks out about the intersection of fashion, sustainability, and social justice. She emphasises the importance of mindful consumption and supporting ethical brands. Similarly, the Fashion Revolution movement, sparked by the Rana Plaza disaster, encourages consumers to ask brands, “Who made my clothes?” to foster greater transparency and accountability in the industry.

There are other more respectful ways to make fashion be more democratic such as using AI in a good and ethical way, and in general if fashion is indeed a form of  self-expression (I do think it is!) it should expresses our values too. It should tell a story we are proud of, that respects our money but also the planet and its people. In a marathon time is of the essence but in life it's not all about speed; it's about the journey and the impact you leave behind.

In the words of the legendary Vivienne Westwood: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” 

Sources:

• UN Alliance For Sustainable Fashion addresses damage of fast fashion
• By the Numbers: The Economic, Social and Environmental Impacts of “Fast Fashion”
• How fast fashion can cut its staggering environmental impact
• A Grim Anniversary for Survivors of the Rana Plaza Disaster
• - Into the wild with Aja Barber
• - Vivienne Westwood urges shoppers to 'buy less' during politically-charged show at London Fashion Week Men's